Manicure

Before getting BIAB nails, I was disillusioned with nail salons. Regular polish chipped the second I left the salon. Gel manicures always chip on me, plus they tend to tear off the top layers of my nails in the removal process (so acrylics were definitely out of the question). BIAB, however, was able to reel me back in after a six-month sabbatical of manicures.

BIAB is the abbreviation for Builder in a Bottle, a formula from nail-care brand The Gel Bottle. It’s risen to TikTok fame—not only for its unparalleled durability (the brand claims it lasts at least four weeks) but also for how it supports healthy nail growth. It started as a major nail trend in Europe, particularly in the U.K., and has since taken over tips stateside.

Curious about what BIAB nails were all about, I visited manicurist Julie Kandalec at her “Nail Artelier” in New York City to try it out. Kandalec has reached for BIAB for the last five years when working with her celebrity clients, like Pink and Jessica Chastain. Read on to learn more about the benefits of getting a BIAB manicure and my experience with it.

What are BIAB nails?

BIAB is a thick, viscous, multitasking builder gel. Typical builder gel is housed in a pot and used for reinforcing weak nails. It’s often topped with classic gel polish to add color and designs for a structured or hard gel manicure. BIAB, on the other hand, combines the effects of primer, base coat, builder gel, and color into one bottle Kandalec says. “BIAB is strong and durable like acrylic manicures but provides a lightweight, natural finish like gel,” she adds.

Available in over 50 colors, many BIAB polishes are soft nudes and pastel pinks. “Most [of my] BIAB clients tend to lean towards the more dainty and natural look,” Chicago-based nail artist Anissa Campos says. “But you can also add all sorts of embellishments to your BIAB manicure, such as charms, chrome powder, and airbrush [designs].”

BIAB is for professional use only. You must be a licensed nail tech to purchase a bottle, so you’ll need to visit a salon for a BIAB manicure if you’re not.

What are the benefits of a BIAB manicure?

Daily tasks like typing, household chores, and workout classes can weaken nails over time. A BIAB manicure is a great option for those who want to grow, repair, and reinforce their natural nails, especially if they are brittle. “Think of BIAB as armor for your nails,” Kandalec says. “It gives your nails a protective overlay, which makes them less likely to chip or crack and more likely to grow to whatever length you desire.” Board-certified dermatologist Mona Gohara confirms this benefit, adding that strengthening natural nails and making them less likely to split or crumble is an important feature of this trendy new nail formula.

Because BIAB is thicker than the typical gel manicure, you won’t be able to bite through it, which is helpful if you’re trying to break the habit of nail-biting, Campos says. Its viscosity also helps visibly smooth ridges, splits, and discoloration.

It won’t change the actual structure of your nail, though. “It’s very difficult to smooth out ridges,” Dr. Gohara explains. “Ridges are a function of genetics, what we do to our nails, and time. In some instances, medicated topical lacquers may help [even out your nail], but it is not an easy task.”

How does a BIAB manicure compare to a gel manicure?

Both BIAB and gel manicures shield your nail plate, but Campos says the former is more durable, withstanding more of the elements life throws at it. According to Cincinnati-based cosmetic chemist Kelly Dobos, this sturdiness is thanks to a Bis(methacryloyloxyethyl) phosphate, a monomer typically used in dentistry to create fillings, bonds, sealants, and crowns that can endure the wear and tear of polishing and chewing. Gel polish, on the other hand, gets its durability from a lower, weaker concentration of monomers and oligomers, which doesn’t give nails as hard of a coating.